I did not train for it as I had a cold up to a week before I left, normally I would have cycled a bit more by commuting about 20-25km a day (when I stay in Melbourne with the 'Grubs').
This trip is really in two parts. The first was inland through Victoria and NSW to Brisbane. The land is undulating with a few steepish sections (around Coonabarrabran, getting up onto New England plateau etc), weather was pretty good, cool and often pleasant (12°-15°C days), other travellers were few and far between except for people driving north for winter (often with caravans). The second part up the Queensland coast was hot (25°-30° C every day til north of Townsville, though this was above average for winter) and flat with lots of tourists.
Accommodation was mostly youth hostels, with some fantastic and very cheap (A$12-20 a night) old hotels in NSW, and some camping.
Bike: I actually bought a decent bike, A Gemini 'World Randonneur', for this trip - a lot lighter than the heavy mountain bike I used in Europe and certainly a bit faster but on those rough roads/road edges I wondered whether something tougher, albeit slower, would not be a better option. The Gel seat is a fine improvement however!
Roads: I kept to secondary or minor roads in Victoria-NSW but cruised mostly up the main coast road in Queensland. The Newell highway in NSW is best avoided - no shoulders, lots of traffic including many trucks. The New England highway at least is a bit wider and has a reasonable shoulder much of the way. The coastal highway in Queensland varies a lot from fantastic to frightening but overall is not so bad. The minor roads in all states are generally quite good with very little traffic (some of the exceptions to this rule are noted!). As I don't carry a computer some of the distances may be inaccurate and verticals are generally guesstimates.
Traffic: Unfortunately the "car reigns supreme" mentality survives in many parts of Australia. Though I had just one really near miss from a car (in northern NSW), there were quite a lot of inconsiderate / inattentive drivers - I had several (empty) bottles thrown at me from a car in Queensland (they missed). Visibility from a distance is important to awaken drivers to your existence as early as possible - joining the roadkill is not an attractive career move.
Maps: I used portions of an Australian touring atlas with varying scales from 1 in 400000 to 1 in 1.2million (cost $5 at a discount bookshop) supplemented by a Broadbents 1 in 760000 S.E. NSW + Vic map ($7.25). These did not show all roads but showed the majority of useful ones for what I was doing. In Queensland there just are not all that many roads.
5th June, Melbourne to Heathcote, 90km
Headed down the Maribyrnong River cycle path to Footscray Railway Station to catch a train about 30km to Sunbury to escape the bulk of urban sprawl and city traffic. Putting bike on train was no problem as it is against the rush-hour flow. Out on Lancefield road past rapidly growing Goonwarra hamlet. The road proves a good choice with little traffic for the quality of the road. A steady climb into headwind reminds me how unfit I am! Have a break to explore impressive 3 storey antique shop in Lancefield. The 100m or so climb takes the life from my legs for a while but the road becomes easier (more downhills) with rather spectacular rocky scenery closer to Tooborac, my intended destination. Unfortunately the hotel was booked out so I dawdled onto Heathcote and stayed in a caravan in the rain.
6th June, Heathcote-Echuca, 100km
Start along main road through pleasant scenery but am drenched after ½hour as the rain overnight had not depleted the clouds sufficiently - a drought was in the process of breaking. Keep to the main road as its wide shoulder seems safest in this weather. Reach Elmore for lunch and then Rochester with weakening legs. Follow wet gravel roads alongside largely disused railway into Echuca and comfortable 'Riverboat' hostel, arriving quite exhausted.
7th June, Echuca. Spent day wandering around on shaky legs, enjoying particularly the houseboats and historical society museum. I discovered that the stiff plastic of each pannier had cracked up so I spent some time patching that with a bit of plastic from a car's wheel arch, plus glue and tape [note that this repair is still going strong 10000km later!]
8th June, Echuca-Deniliquin, 75km Pick up road along railway after 6 or 7km of highway as it gets wet wet wetter. There's lots of sand on road making the going slow and dirty but o.k. though road is incredibly monotonous - dead flat, straight with unchanging scenery. I'd intended to detour to Barmah forest but feeling lazy with one sore achilles tendon and lots of rain, I skip it. Divert to Mathoura over roads often flowing with water to have a dry lunch under a nice big bus shelter. I return to the sandy road after a short stretch on highway which is good for many kms until the sand becomes this sticky red stuff which is painfully slow to get through and required much time and water to clean later in Deniliquin. Hostel looks dilapidated but the semi- permanent resident and the manager are very pleasant so I stay an extra day.
9th June, Deniliquin. Clean bike some more, fix gears, talk to Bob, etc. Wander along the river red gum flood plain where some red kangaroos are basking, then back through the town. Deniliquin looks generally rather sad but has an attractively painted up main street and a lovely park in the centre.
10th June, Deniliquin - Urana, 145km. Good roads but struggle north into cross/head wind for 30km to Conargo for morning tea. Turn east to make good time downwind (55km in just over 2hrs) to Jerilderie for lunch. 56km to Urana is at first into the wind along highway then east again and easier. Not much to Urana, 2 shops and 2 pubs and a nicely restored post office. Pubs seem noisy so I go and camp on a sandy mound in a flooded park.
11th June, Urana - Narrandera, 85km. About to leave fairly early when invited by a local for coffee and a chat. Then north on good empty road through well cleared farm lands which offered no shelter from the strong Westerlies. After morning tea make good time to highway and along it for lunch just before Narrandera. Got in at 1:30 just in time to shop then onto delightful restored 1916 guest house/hostel. Town is very pleasant and well presented with interesting antique shops, and "Stockfeeds'n Stuff" with motto 'You breed it, We'll feed it!'
12th June, Narrandera - Griffith, 80km. South Westerly winds prove annoying as I head west through Lecton (some attractive 1930s buildings) to Whitton then the orange orchards/rice and grain farms of the very flat MIA (Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area). First puncture. After a run around I stay at a workers hostel for fruit pickers, almost empty at this time of year. The 4 other stayers tell stories of the hard work for little pay for inexperienced fruit pickers when they first start.
13th June, Griffith, bludge. Talk and walk. Pioneer Park is very interesting. This area is all so recently settled with no buildings before 1930s but some interesting art deco material.
14th June, day trip to Cocopara N.P., 80km Ride to park and then north to Jacks Creek Walk which is pleasant and informative and back to hostel as its getting dark.
15th, Griffith - Lake Cargellico, 135km. Depart at 8am (early for me so far) east and then north to Rankin's Springs over quiet roads. Followed one fox at 30kmh or so for 500m. A few trees and hills make this area more interesting than the MIA. Road from Rankins Springs to Lake Cargellico is being renovated - 60% sealed but some very rough bits in between. Lake Cargellico is very scenicly located on the banks of the lake (expanded in 1900). Delightful turn of the century hotel has room for $14 including breakfast. A bit exhausted, not fit enough yet.
16th June, Lake Cargellico - Trundle, 165km. A chat to a roving pesticides official delayed my departure to 9:15. A supporting breeze helps me along another very good road with only a few cars to Condobolin in 4hrs (95km) for lunch in the sun. Ride off towards Parkes unsure of destination but eventually decide on Trundle and get a room at the Trundle Hotel (which obviously should have been called the Trundle Inn), another c1900 affair with flaky paint, lots of pressed metal and lovely pine ceilings. Trundle has a remarkably wide (50m) main street, and lots of churches for a small place.
17th June, Trundle - Dubbo, 135km. An extended breakfast of cornflakes and toast then north past a silo and I follow the 'Peak Hill' signs over rough bitumen and good gravel roads, sighting only one car in 38km. Struggle a bit after morning tea, onto Tomingley for lunch then 51km along Newell Highway. The first 10-15km is awful (rough edges, much traffic) but the road improves and make last 30km in 55mins with a tail wind. 10 people in hostel which seems a lot after the last places I've stayed.
18th June, Dubbo, 10km. Short ride out to Dundallinal farmhouse (one of few remaining vertical slab buildings) with cedar French windows which survived the termites due to use of the indigeneous cyprus timber for its construction. Walk and walk and walk.
19th June, Dubbo-Coonabarrabran, 150km. Leave at 8am for supermarket and then along Dunedoo road looking for correct cross road. I choose a roughish gravel road and nearly meet a train at a crossing. Have copious stops to adjust gearing and end up on lovely forested road to Mendooran with lots of gentle hills. Good time intially but slow down later, particularly on the severe hills back on Newell highway just before Coonabarrabran. After a brief exploration, I make hard work of the 9km west to hostel - a motel room with 5 beds, no one else around.
20th June, Coonabarrabran/Warrumbungles, 50km. Frost soon clears under warm sun and finally ride off around 9:30. One long steepish hill to Siding Spring observatory turnoff surprised me and long downslope even more (300m?, I'm going to have to climb back up this!). Roll to start of walk and park bike along with about 10 cars and stroll off. This is rather reminiscent of Freycinet peninsular (Tasmania). I soon meet a koala leisurely jogging along that basically ignores me. Follow 'grand high tops' walk which has some fine views including the 'breadknife' that looks like a slice of toast from below. On the way down I passed 2 kangaroos grazing on the track that were not going to move - one grumbled/barked at me (to piss off). I went to ranger station to pay park entry fee but they wouldn't let me because I was a cyclist. The trip back to hostel was less of a struggle than expected.
21st June, Coonabarrabran-Pilliga Scrub, 115km. Into town to shop and then north west towards the small pleasant town of Barradine to buy a map of the Pilliga Scrub area from the local forestry office. Into the scrub, the main gravel roads are rough due to traffic but some of the minor roads are better. The'scrub' appears to be largely regrowth but quite diverse. Eventually reach the salt caves, of which the main one slopes upwards and is quite a lot warmer than the outside air. I continue 20km and find a nice campsite and rug up, it's cold, tent fly and water bottles freeze overnight.
22nd June, Pilliga Scrub-Manilla, 135km. Cycle 40km or so along forest roads then hop over a gate and 5km through a farm, a bit of rough road into strengthening cross-head winds. Take 4 hours to make 60+ kms to Boggabri. Continue on east, the struggle with wind and rough road is tiring and slow. Road improves after another 2 hours and an hour later the wind begins to lessen, so after a reviving afternoon tea, the last 20km is quite easy! Manilla is a beautifully intact Victorian era town of 2000 people (?). Stop at first pub I come to, just $10 a night! Wander town and then a pub meal and I collapse, today was toughest so far.
23d June, Manilla-Armidale, 125km. Less wind today and head off early but two punctures and then an awful back road (rough and steep zigzags along fence lines) become mentally and physically exhausting so I take 5 hours for the 60+ kms to Bendemeer on New England Highway. Continue ap a few hills along highway before lunch, then a few more onto the New England tablelands and stagger into Uralla at 4pm. Afternoon tea is again reviving and I reach Armidale as the sky darkens. Get directions to cousin Julie's place.
24th-27th June, bludging in and around Armidale.
28th June Armidale-Glen Innes, 100km. The vague threats of rain become real, my puncture patch lasts all of 200m - ah well, one of those days. Head off into cross/head winds along highway which is a bit unpleasantly busy. Back road out of Guyra was good for a time to Ben Lomond village (1300m) but became much rougher from there back down to the highway. The highway was better here however for slightly easier trip into Glen Innes. Good $15 room in Royal Hotel. Lovely intact central streetscape little changed since WWII era.
29th June, Glen Innes-Tenterfield, 90km. Straightforward highway run with cross/tail wind. Stay at YHA. Spent interesting time at railway station museum (some fantastic cedar furnishings) - last trains stopped 8 years prior. Tenterfield has many grand houses from early this century.
30th June, Tenterfield-Warwick, 125km. Unsure of direction I'm heading I left at 8 along Woodenbong road. Slowish progress til crest of first hill (200m?) then quickly along to Bald Rock (largest surface lump of granite). A lovely day, no clouds seen, great views from top. After walk, drift down along scenic route before lunch after 80km. Road to Warwick (Queensland) appears ok and is 20km shorter than heading east to Urbenville so I goto Warwick over lowish pass and reasonable roads. Last 14km into wind is a bit harder so stop for afternoon tea. Head to hostel which is unfortunately closed so go to Criterion Hotel, another impressive monolith.
1st July, Warwick-Brisbane (Bardon), 160km. 20km along a back road is a good choice then make good time to Cunningham Gap as a tail wind picks up. An enjoyable walk in the national park plus morning tea before a steep and fast run down onto the plains to Aratula and then north in lowland HEAT (!) to Ipswich by 2. Came across first cycle tourer of the journey on this bit. I investigate catching a train through the suburbs due to the unpleasant traffic but its too long a wait so continue on and, with some helpful locals for directions, reach Indooroopilly then Bardon. Took a while to find Steve and Meredith's place among the steep hills of Bardon.
2nd-6th July, Brisbane. A relative bludge though my first game of touch football plus a cold crippled me for most of the time. Spent 3 days vegetating, reading, and drinking lots of hot lemon/lime/cinnamon/ginger/honey drinks for my cold, to little obvious effect. Bardon was built around 1900-40. The 'Queenslander' (raised, verandahed house) has become very popular again after decades of disdain.
7th July, Brisbane-Maroochydore, 60km. Ride into central Brisbane and catch train to Caboolture (50km, 1hr) to escape the suburbs. Ride all of 5km before stopping at amuseum village (a skansen), more recently set up than the one at Griffith and perhaps a bit more amateurish but with some lovely cottages and furniture. Trundle on to stop at Beerburrum park for lunch then persist with busy and narrow road (this use to be the main highway!) and lose a pannier on a high ridge at the end of one bridge and had to dodge traffic to recover it. Take tourist road to Buderim via road marker 'Very steep climb next 1.74km' - ouch. Down again to Maroochydore hostel which is busy (quite a change from NSW as winter is main tourist season here). I can see why the Sunshine coast is popular - more sedate and natural than the Gold Coast, though this is changing.
8th July, Maroochydore-Noosa, 60km. A hot day. Take rough road passing under impressive Dunethin rock and then to Yandina and a torrent of traffic on the highway. Ride out to Wappa dam and back to Yandina, onto Eumundi where there's a heap of people for the saturday morning market. Stay at 'Koala' hostel which is ok. Enjoyed the afternoon wandering around the small Noosa N P, etc.
9th July, Noosa-Rainbow Beach, 100km. Decide to get off the main backpackers route as I'm a bit sick of it already (2 nights!) and follow back roads through Cooloola way to Rainbow beach, a developing resort area and 4WD territory - many come to hoon along the beaches, on Fraser Is the east coast beach is the main road. Only other hosteller is a female cyclist who has ridden Sydney - Tasmania - here.
10th July, Rainbow Beach - Fraser Is, Central Station, 60km. Was emphatically told I could not ride on the cross island tracks but after 2 hrs (35km) along beach being very often overtaken by 4WDs including about 20 tour vehicles, I managed to ride (mostly) across to central station in an hour - pretty awful for bike though. Fraser Island is really interesting, wonderful forest remnants. Pleasant stroll through forest to Lake Mckenzie for a swim and back.
11th July, Fraser Is- Hervey Bay, 25km. Pleasant stroll again - this forest growing out of the sand still seems amazing. Dawdle out to ferry and wait and clean bike and lunch and wait. Book in to another 'Koala' hostel and go out for long stroll on the great walking beach. A fantastic sunset too. Very touristy place, mostly catering for Fraser Is.
12th July, Hervey Bay-Bundaberg, 120km. Start out into light north-west breeze. Cool early but hot after clouds clear. Slowish going to Childers into breeze, some parts of highway are a bit tight, others fine. Childers is quite pleasant. Northeast to Bundaberg through sugarcane country - it's hot (30°C ?). Reach Bundaberg at 2:30 and end up at a well organised hostel largely filled with fruit pickers. Out at night to see a terrific concert with James Morrison and Bundaberg city band.
13th July, Bundaberg. A 6am wake up is a hazard of sharing with fruit pickers. Lots of walking. Bought new chain but when fitted it was slipping - my new rear sprockets are worn after only 2500km - pathetic Shimano rubbish (in Europe I got 6000km for similar amount of wear with cheaper gear- so I went back to old tired chain (which at least had a good clean at bike shop!) and stuck with for another 2500km when it was really shagged. Bundaberg is usual eclectic mix and quite spread out. I found some fantastic timber slab and metal spike furniture in one of the shops.
14th July, Bundaberg-Benaraby, 160km. Delayed start to wait for the managers to return from their worker delivery rounds so I could pay. Take the short cut along moderate dirt road through Lowmead to Miriam Vale for a well deserved icypole and refilled water bottles. HOT. Left at 3pm for last 47km to Benaraby and make reasonable time arriving just after sunset. Camp at caravan/camping park.
15th July, Benaraby-Rockhamnpton, 125km. Left in the cool of the morning but don't remember the road well, just lots of sugar cane and got into Rocky about 3pm. Many c.19 buildings reminiscent of Launceston and nice shady mall are appreciated - its very hot til 4.30. Pleasant YHA hostel too and I stay for a while.
16th-17th July, Rockhampton, 25km. My fixed aluminium rack had cracked and I got it welded for a friendly 'no charge' so I left $5 and then getting spokes the right size - I broke about 3 on the trip on the rear wheel opposite side to cogs. Toured around town including excellent botanic gardens, leisurely walking and reading.
18th July, Rocky - St Lawrence, 183km A fair way to go with winter day and slight headwind most of the way. Carried 5 litres of water in case I could not get refills. Fog remained til 9:30 which was cooling but dangerous - few road shoulders. Refilled water bottles and replace a slow leaking tube at Marlborough just before lunch. Late morning and early afternoon cross/head winds picked up but vegetation breaks up the wind. Met 2 English cyclists coming from Cairns - great to chat for ten minutes or so. Better time in afternoon and reach St Lawrence at 5:15 after sunset. Nice free camping ground with toilets, showers, lights.
19th July, St Lawrence - Mackay, 160km. Another early start (7:40) and a hint of a tail breeze make an easy mornings ride. Lunch after 100km. Some pretty coastal scenery at Clairview and hills at left make a prettier ride than I'd expected from the 'desolation' warnings I'd had. Mackay 'Larrikin Lodge' YHA hostel is a great traditional hostel with friendly manager.
20th July, Mackay-Finch Hatton, 80km. After ringing Warren of Platypus Bush camp I met him on the road. A puncture, and leaky replacement tube and this short jaunt became a bit tiresome. Into Finch Hatton for lunch and to view interesting but pricey cedar gallery (last cedar in Australia from public forests had stopped being taken here the previous year). Ride to the Platypus Bush camp and then up to the National Park for short walk. Homemade icecream and chat to locals on way back.
21st July, Finch Hatton Gorge, 5km. Rode up to N P again to avoid wet feet at creek crossings! Stroll up 3kms to wheel of fire falls, a 3 stage affair. Find route up first fall then read for a while, wander up the gorge a few 100 metres in pristine surroundings and take dip before lunch, read and dry out on a sunny rock - paradise for a day. Meander back to camp to repair tubes, chat to Rory and read by Platypus pool - don't see any though saw two this morning.
22nd July, Finch Hatton-Airlie Beach, 155km. Depart at 7:30 unsure of destination. Ride to Gargett then across to Mt Ossa Rd (pinching a tube on a rock on a down hill bend) and via short rough section to Calen road to meet highway at 10:30 after 60+km, about 65-70km from Proserpine. Very pleasant mornings ride becomes tougher (as usual) about an hour before lunch. Last 50km into A.B. is fairly hot and tiring and I arrive dehydrated. Check into last bed in YHA hostel - busy here too! Lovely spot, a secluded bay with hills still mostly forested, resorts not having overwhelmed them - yet!Lousy sleep after being woken by others entering - the trials of hostels.
3500km
23rd-24th July A.B.-Hook Island-A.B. Head out on regular ferry service to the camping ground/hostel on Hook Is. Snorkelling is good, walking is undeveloped and generally discouraged as dangerous. Did a couple of walks upto ridge above first bay around from hostel - untouched fairly dry forest, big hoop pines, great views from rocks at top of ridge. Otherwise play the beach bum along with most others. Go back via the much denuded South Molle Island and its feeding of the parrots with an incredible sound and light show of 100s of parrots flying over and through a small crowd of people.
25th July, A.B. - Bowen, 95km. Earlyish start and reach information caravan outside town for a chat at 11am. Into town to a hostel, its full and an 'inmate' says "don't stay here - it's awful!" and advised me to try Trinity's hostel at Queens Beach - that was pretty ordinary too. Lots of workers here. Consider flying back to Tasmania as the 'Iron Barron' oil spill has recently occurred and George Town is busy coping with the spill and the clean-up workers. Bowen has no great appeal though nice slab hut at local museum.
26th July, Bowen (Queens Beach)-Townsville, 205km+. My first 200km day (wanker day!) Leave at 7:15 and make pretty good time to Home Hill (4:40mins for 105km) for lunch and to collect more water. Other 'towns' were pretty small in this stretch. Home Hill and Ayr look surprisingly prosperous. Lots of '3 corner jacks' (thorns) here - I had 4 or 5 punctures, a Korean cyclist I met yesterday said he'd had 4 punctures on this stretch and I met a motorcyclist with one or two. So I spent an hour or more patching and switching tubes. Struggled a bit with headwinds in the afternoon, generally past barren farms, though some were irrigated. Mountains are reasonably attractive in passing. Noticed such classics as 'Old Pinch Bog Rd' and 'Rise and Shine Rd' along the way. Get to Townsville and Uncle Dougs place at Mt Louisa just before dark.
27th July - 3rd August, Townsville, 75km. Mainly spent lounging and reading on Doug's lovely verandah. Townsville has good system of cycle paths along road edges. It has grown since I was last here 6 years earlier. Ross river reservoir has only a few puddles in it -no wonder surroundings seemed so dry, this is the dry tropics after all.
4th August, Townsville-Jourama Falls, 90km. Leisurely 9:30 departure and make good time along busy highway of varying quality. Made it to Jourama Falls for lunch then strolled up to falls - worth the trip, and took path down to falls base and meet group of Americans heading up. Pleasant swimming in dee-eep water at base of falls, the shower is a bit painful though. Tall Sheoaks along rocky stream below. There's a 1m+ Goanna basking on a tree in the campground. A Sydney family invite me over for dinner.
5th August, Jourama Falls-Mission Beach, 150km. Early start and flat road through Ingham and Cardwell (a one street, one beach town). Detour briefly to Edmund Kennedy N P but return to road as rain develops. I trundle through a light drizzle to Mission Beach and stay at very well organised M.B. hostel (my calls to YHA Treehouse hostel just got call back later messages). Rains continue and become heavier.
6th August, M.B. Raining - up here it has been for a week and with some record low temperatures. Decide to walk in forest so stroll out to Licuala state forest (30 mins). See an inquisitive Cassowary on the access road, curious as to this stranger walking by (they are reputed to be dangerous but it was not at all agressive). Fan Palm rainforest is very good but the path through to Laceys Creek is along an old logging track and a bit depressing. Then 6km back into M.B. and National Parks visitor centre (good) and via beach in wind and drizzle to hostel, footsore and with minor leg muscle strain. M.B. is in transition into a completely touristified place but probably won't get to the Sunshine Coast stage. Resorts are occasionally sympathetic to the area.
7th August, M.B.-Innisfail, 50km. 2 hour ride with rain finally stopping after nearly 48 continuous hours. I halt at Innisfail to avoid a drenching night at Palmerston N P camp ground but perhaps this was unnecessary. Innisfail was devastated by a 1918 cyclone and the streetscapes are essentially 1920s-30s.
8th August, Innisfail-Palmerston NP, 30km. A cross/head wind makes beginning slow as road winds up and down past farms and odd fruit stall to edge of N.P. Helicopter was (carelessly) spraying a banana crop just out of the park. Stop for morning tea at top of walk down slope through forest - some old trees here - along creek past small falls and back up to road. Ride 5km to campsite for lunch then 7km walk to more impressive Nandroya falls is lovely, beautiful forest.
9th August, Palmerston NP - Atherton, 80km. Climb about 450m to crest (673m) then down 150m and up 200m or so to Millaa Millaa and north to malanda on reasonable undulating road through farmland. Then south to the delightful Lake Eacham for a swim in pleasantly warm waters, then lunch. Next to Yungaburra to explore craft shops and museum and onto Atherton, passing a German guy who has just struggled up the Gillies highway from Cairns. Meet him later at the fine modern and friendly Atherton backpackers.
10th August, Atherton-Kuranda, 70km. A leisurely day riding with Rolph (from yesterday) downwind to Mareeba for a quick look and an icecream and then into cross/head wind to Kuranda. The tablelands are largely cleared of forest, the fringes are slowly being touristified with "Rainforest" appearing prominently in names. If I wasn't going to Cairns to meet Rod and family I would have continued north on the minor ridge top road.
11th August, Kuranda-Cairns, 30km. The 150m climb surprised me before the zig-zag descent and 15km into strong headwind into Cairns. Along to Esplanade YHA. Main difference from my last visit is the spread of new units, etc, through the back streets as well - soon none of the old Cairns left. I still wonder what people see in Cairns? Meet Rod for good and extravagant seafood meal + lots of wine. I lazily accept an offer of a ride up to Cape Trib tomorrow.
12th August, Cairns-Cape Tribulation, (5km ride). By 4WD to Daintree ferry and a 1 hour wait (this wouldn't happen on a bike!) and onto Coconut Beach resort - its pricey but nestles very well into the forest. Later I depart for National Park campground down the road.
13th August, Noah Beach-Crocodylus, 40km. Ride back to Cape Trib then 6km more to Emmagem Creek along rough and muddy 'road'. The Bloomfield track from here through to Cooktown appears suitable for unladen mountain bike but not otherwise. The inland route is much better for cycling, I'm told. Wander up creek to a swimming hole (reputedly no crocodiles here) and went for pleasant swim between showers. Perhaps 20 4WDs crossed the creek while here but all the 2WDs stopped at this ford. Back to Coconut Beach Resort for lunch and more wine then back to Crocodylus Lodge, a great place to stay.
14th August, Crocodylus Lodge Walk/wander/read/chat. The local wildlife guide used to be a sheet metal worker who holidayed up here, liked the place and stayed.
15th August, Crocodylus-Pt Douglas, 60km. Ride up to top of range is really pleasant. A group of paying cyclists has just been driven up for the downhill run. Down to Ferry across Daintree River again then dawdle along to P.D. to camp. P.D. has actually changed for the better, now largely transformed into a tourist resort and more pleasant than most. Delightful afternoon reading spot with views to Cape Kimberley.
16th August, Pt Douglas-Cairns, 70km. A 3 hour ride, with light to moderate cross head winds. I'd expected the traffic and narrow roads to make this section unpleasant but it was not so bad.
4540km
17-18 August, Cairns-Brisbane by bus
19-20 August, Brisbane Bludged while staying with cousin Ross and his wife Kylie.
21st August, Capalaba-Lamington N.P. (O'Reilly's), 100km. A bit difficult to ride again after days off. Head south on occasionally dangerous road towards Beenleigh to shop as the day warms up rapidly. Take fairly easy road to Tamborine then (avoiding the steep route over Mt Tamborine) to Canungra for lunch. People at the info centre persuade me that O'Reilly's is better than Binnaburra (I'd read that campground at O'Reillys is often booked out but there was lots of space). The bulk of the climb (up to Mt Cairnbable, 700m or so) occurs in a 13km section of about 5% grade then a descent (?200m) and up a similar amount to O'R (at 920m). All quite pleasant, the 36km took 2½hours. After 5pm I wandered off to suspended walkway through forest and to watch glorious sunset. Met a Canberra girl now working in Japan and later went for an enjoyable meal and drink in restaurant.
22nd-23rd August, O'Rs 2 great days of walking. The rainforest is great and the wildlife also - saw a lyrebird and 'talked' to a king parrot.
24th August, O'Rs-Murwillumbah, 125km Breakfast at 6:30 with hordes of Crimson Rosellas climbing and fluttering over me trying to get a share. The bush turkeys finished of anything the rosellas did not like. A downhill section then quite a bit of climbing back up to Mt Cairnbable before long descent to Canungra (1h 20mins). Head east with some steep ascents/descents before following river towards Nerang. Decide to take slightly longer route over Numinbah pass. Soon regret this is many more sharp little climbs along Cedar Lake following 2 long days walking have largely killed my legs. Stop at "Natural Bridge" for a short walk + water refill then up last few kms to pass. A steep descent (with brief stop for some cheap and tasty farm gate bananas) and struggle into Murwillumbah for lunch. Decide to quit for day and organise a train (bike was no problem, and I think no charge) to Sydney tomorrow, hostel is in great location.
25th August, Murwillumbah, 35km - then by train-Sydney. Packed up and took a couple of bags to station then continued onto Mt Warning. After legs limber up, a pleasant ride along roughish road to turnoff and few kms in then ... bloody hell this is steep. Climbed about 300m over last 2kms, it is tough even without much gear and I walked a couple of bits of it (going down exciting too). After this the walk to the top was a piece of cake, well almost. Attractive forest below, steep climb up rocky creek bed at top - lookouts on all sides and have lunch with an excellent annotated view. Back to town to see some really good displays in the underutilised local museum.
26th-27th August, Sydney, 40km. Train is ok for an overnighter, good views of the park areas and waterways north of Sydney. Ride out to Glebe YHA which has a vacancy so I stay. General touring and then on Sunday a history jaunt to Vaucluse House, Elizabeth Bay house (?), the Hyde Park Barracks and Susannah Place - all worthwhile. Sydney is ok to ride around on Sunday but the central area is very poorly organised for cyclists otherwise.
28th August, Sydney-Bundanoon, 115km. Ride to station and pick a slow train to Campbelltown. After taking wrong road for a while turn off to take hilly back road through Menangle, Picton and Thirlmere to the 'Southern Highlands' of Bowral/Mittagong area. My legs feel particularly weak but I reach Bundanoon around 3pm and ride out to Moreton NP and Gorge which I have to myself - very peaceful in the late afternoon sun. Hostel is good and nearly empty
29th August, Bundanoon-Canberra, 165km. Early departure is cool for a change (altitude is 650m) and I ride all rugged up. Legs are suffering a bit still but I make reasonable time and gratefully clear last hill before Goulburn for a hearty morning tea in the sun. A local girl stops to chat for 20mins - she has just had 4mths cycling in NZ (which ends up being my next destination). Struggle into cross/head winds along good roads 45kms to Lake George for lunch. Then along varying roads and over a few hills into Canberra to stay with friends for a few days before catching a bus back to Melbourne (bus people said bike could be a problem if luggage area full but when I rolled up, no problem and no extra charge).
5100km. End of the road. Rear cogs plus chain completely worn out, one side of pack rack broken again (and wired up). Although winter is cooler for this trip, the short days can be a limitation (it is light from about 7:30am to 5pm in mid winter). A flashing tail light would have been sensible for some of the foggy days as well as the dark evenings. Back to my bike tour listing