A bicycle tour of New Zealand, August - October 1997
My third tour of any note, two months of cycling, walking and just being a tourist in N.Z. I rode to Tullamarine airport (Melbourne) from Essendon (reminding me of my unfitness) and carried my touring bike unpackaged from Melbourne to Auckland, then back in a cardboard bike box from Christchurch to Hobart via Melbourne. I have now carried bikes several times with Qantas (writing a year and a half later), the bikes have always travelled very well and at no cost, even the $10 fee for providing a bike box has always been waived, except one Tasmania-Melbourne trip! This trip with my touring bike.Accommodation was mostly youth hostels/backpackers, which are plentiful, generally good and cheap due to the NZ$. At this time of year there were few other stayers outside the main tourist spots. I found it a good time of year to travel, especially as I had mostly good (unseasonally good) weather on the south island. I carried a tentfly and ground sheet for fine weather/emergency camping (used 4 nights only, but weighs only 600grams). A thermarest sleeping mat was also useful in most of the 'backcountry' huts.
14-15 August, 0km Arrive Auckland 4pm, catch skybus into town (about NZ$10 + $5 for bike) - cycling in did not look too attractive. I walked mostly around Auckland which is very hilly and has too much traffic for the size of road for cycling to be particularly pleasant.
16 August, Auckland-Warkworth, 65km Ride to port and catch ferry across to Devonport (cyclists are not permitted to ride across main bridge, can catch bus though) then follow East Coast road with increasing traffic and periodic drizzle. Steep hills (usually 100m or so) appear every few kms along quietish SH1 road, particularly around Waiwera. Last 10km into Warkworth is easier but I'm feeling stuffed already at 1:30. Shop then stroll 4km out to very pleasant and interesting Parry Kauri Park.
17 August, Warkworth-Dargaville, 120km. Followed major roads SH1 and SH12 plus a small shortcut on a mountain road, all generally good and fairly flat though westerly winds became quite trying in the afternoon. Spend 3 hours at Matakohe Kauri Museum, a terrific museum - the best of its type I have seen - which covers all aspects of kauri timber, logging industry, etc and includes superb late 19th century furniture. Leave at 3 for fairly strenuous ride into head wind to Ruawai then with cross wind to Dargaville. Good traditional hostel.
18 August, Dargaville-Opononi, 90km. Leisurely start to day though into a north-westerly along flat quiet road to Kaihu. Then a devastating hill on main road north in heat and headwind and my legs are complaining. Trounson Kauri park route probably better. Eventually at top then roll down gentle grade to Waipoua park h/q for lunch. Next climb upto big trees section is fairly easy, well graded and sheltered. Walk out to see impressively huge kauris. The last bit before Omapere was difficult with headwind and nasty hill (100m at >10% grade). Gentle ride to shops and quiet appealing YHA in old Pakanae school.
19-20 August, Opononi, 20km. Relaxing, walking - follow mountain road upto Waio.. track through forest which is great compared with the surrounding farmland. My cold is redeveloping and rest is necessary to relieve slight muscle strains. The entrance to Hokianga harbour is wonderfully picturesque.
21 Aug, Opononi-Russell, 90k. Early start and easy riding in occasional drizzle, little traffic through to Kaikohe. Another 6km or so to Ngawha Springs with all sorts of mineral water baths available at temperatures from 11º - 46 º (ouch). Emerge incredibly relaxed. Back to main road then Old Bay Rd, a good shortcut to Paihia. After lunch, meet Elya (Israeli guy from Opononi) hitching. Road to Paihia has a few short steep hills and much more traffic, some inconsiderate. Ferrry to Russell is $3 and saves 12km. I have the cute "End of the Road" hostel to myself.
22 Aug, Russell, 60k. Walk and do worthwhile tour of former catholic mission printery/tannery building. Then a slightly longer than expected ride over Ngaiotonga hills (some lovely forest) along occasionally very rough or muddy roads, the pieces of "gravel" up to several cms. Down to Ngaiotonga and back around coast with many short steep climbs. More walking around Russell and reading.
23 Aug, Russell-Waipu, 130km. Long day into south-westerlies, met one guy complaining it was the coldest day this year! First to Opua car ferry then steady going to Whangarei on occasionally very busy SH1 (good shoulder most of way) which was mercifully flat apart from one moderate climb upto plateau. Shop and dawdle and lunch. Continue on SH1 to Oakleigh then detour via Springfield to Waipu caves. Back tire keeps deflating slowly and replacement tyre does also until I pinch it against rim on some "gravel" and replace that too. Two steepish 100m climbs on rough roads before descent to caves. My headlight batteries have died despite next to no use so I can't explore cave very far. Off along gravel and another steep 100m climb and faster ride into Waipu and to excellect "Ebb & Flow" hostel a few km beyond.
24 Aug, Waipu-Helensville, 110k. More south-westerlies but lighter than yesterday. Good quiet road along coast to Mangawhai then very good road through Te Arai to SH1. The 7km along SH1 is very busy. Approx 100 m climb into Wellsford then 250m? hill with steep sections before Tauhoa and it is time to stop for lunch with a view. Undulating through to Kaukapakapa with another hill (150-200m) just before. Flat road through to Helensville and Malolo hostel. Knees are worryingly sore - strained them during a bushwalk in March.
25 Aug, Helensville-Miranda, 110k. Knees feel much better. Ride through light mist and make good time but a small detour means I just miss the 9:05 train from Waitakere so ride onto Ranui and wait. My maps are inadequate for riding through Auckland. Trains into Newmarket then south to Takanini cost $3.60 each so I avoid most of Auckland and I take flat and very quiet road to Clevedon, then coast and delightful Kawakawa Bay, 200m? climb and a few smaller ones to coast again and flat fast ride to Miranda bird trust (interesting) and to hot pools -ahhhh- to camp (good facilities).
26 Aug, Miranda-Kaueranga Valley, 55k. Leave at 8:45 with damp tent, nice road to Waitakaruru, SH25 to Thames is busy and flat. Pay for hut fee and leave panniers at DOC (Dept of Conservation) office then ride to Billy Goat Trailhead, lock bike to bridge and walk along superb rock track upto Pinnacles Hut then sloppier, rockier track to Pinnacles (after dropping gear and meeting Elya again, the only other resident). Mist just beats me to top, rain soon follows. Down to luxuriate in warmth of hut. The area must have been magnificent before logging.
27 Aug, Pinnacles-Thames, 20k. Walk down largely stepped Webb Creek track, across stream (a little tricky), back to bike, DOC office, then into Thames for a rest.
28 Aug, Thames to Opoutere, 100km. Leave around 8:45 north for 1hour with a tail-wind (luxury) and occasional rain, then up Tapu-Coroglen ride to the summit (448m) - a very pleasant mountain road, well graded with good surface. Stop at the "Square Kauri" and the top for walks. Gentle run down, stopping for about 100 sheep to dawdle into their paddock (they dawdled a lot faster with a cyclist behind!). Down to Coroglen (basically a pub). Flat 10km to Hahei turnoff, no shops so meagre lunch of remnants (one of which upset my stomach for the next 5 days). 200m climb before Tairua and increasing headwind make the afternoon slow (stomach pains from lunch aren't helping either). Afternoon tea at the Opoutere turnoff is much needed before another 200m climb/150m descent/100m climb/150m descent and then a few flat kms to the fantasic Opoutere YHA
29 Aug, Opoutere. Sickly and unable to hold anything down all day so just walk or relax.
30 Aug, Opoutere-Waihi, 45km. Feeling marginally better I head off south. 14km to Whangamata is easy, 30km to Waihi includes a 230m hill. Just midday but feeling exhausted so stop at pub/backpackers.
31 Aug Waihi-Rotorua, 115k. Leisurely day that became tougher near end. Road descends from Waihi, then flat to undulating, good shoulder most of the way to Tauranga but watch those bridges, quite a lot of traffic. Feel much better and enjoy easy conditions. Morning tea at Kati Kati, change tyre with tiny hole from unknown cause, and look at murals. Then along to Bethlehem with limited views of coast, zig-zag to Pyes Pa Rd, the direct route to Rotorua - 55km on sign, more than the map suggested. Gentle climb to Pyes Pa for lunch, then undulating road upto plantation and reasonable 8km dirt section. Steep 100m descent/climb through Mangerena Gorge then road undulates down to lake. Stay at reasonable and cheap Spa backpackers and meet Elya again. Still can't face evening meal.
1120 k.
1 Sept, Rotorua, 10k. Out to explore area, lots of walking.
2 Sept, Rotorua-Taupo, 85k. Head south, tending gently uphill to Murupara turnoff then downhill and largely flat into Taupo. Traffic moderate (many trucks) with good to no shoulder - easy riding. Detour to Waiotapu mud pool (free and really good) and to Waireki village for lunch. Geothermal power station has interesting display. Detour again up to the "Craters of the Moon" which is simply but well presented. Then the awesome Huka Falls and into Taupo and YHA.
3 Sept, Taupo-Napier 145k. Starting out in rain that does not look like easing requires some fortitude, but I left at 8am anyway. Rain started to ease around Rangataiki after 2 tough hours. Narrow shoulder is often quite rough, hence slow going. Road rises 200-300m from Taupo (at 357m) then is fairly flat before descending (?150m) to Tarawera. Stopped for early lunch of fish and chips. Trundle along river for a while then climb (300m?) to first saddle, 300m descent to river and 300m climb to "The Summit" (750m again) - climbs are not bad at about 8%. Then mainly down with only one short climb (?80m) and fast time to Eskdale, turn right to Napier. Last 30km is flat/slightly downhill. Rain recommences at 3:30 and I reach Napier at 4:30. Didn't feel like stopping at any of the wineries in the drizzle - wine tends to kill my legs anyway.
4 Sept, Napier. Art-deco town (since 1989 anyway when art-deco trust formed to "encourage" the preservation of its 1930s buildings). The earthquake raised so much land above sea level as well as destroying existing infrastructure.
5 Sept, Napier-Dannevirke, 125km. Overcast, ligh-moderate easterlies as I depart. Choose main road so I could see some of Hastings which has similar buildings though fewer of them. After leaving Hastings wind switching to a cold southerly + interrmittent rain made the day slow going and harder than seemed really necessary. Just after Waipakurau turned south to take back roads to Tahakau then Mainantau, 4 km longer than the main road with a few steepish descents/climbs to cross rivers but quite a lovely road in comparison. Dannevirke (pop. 5000) is quite attractive, many restored facades. Camped at motor camp which is nice and secluded. About 0º overnight, 9° during day.
6 Sept, Dannevirke-Masterton, 105km. Like yesterday, S to SE winds pickup during the day, luckily not as strong though. Discover after 20km along good backroad that rear tyre has worn through (and tube too), patching with cloth backed tape is very effective. Sports shop at Paihiatua did not have tyres right size so continued on. Had lunch and short walk in bush remnant just north of Mt Bruce, then 1½hours at wildlife/bird centre. Left at 3:45pm for 25-30km to Masterton, after low pass (367m) the riding improved as the wind died down. Masterton also has many interesting restored facades.
7-8 Sept, Masterton-Wellington. Caught 7:59am train to Wellington to avoid the traffic ($11.50 + $4 for bike). YHA is good value at $15 and I walk and walk and walk. Many cyclists around Wellington despite the challenging terrain and reputation for wind. I like Wellington - interesting old buildings, great botanic garden, interesting paint effects on modern buildings, strong café culture - but living in the far flung suburbs would not be so good.
9 Sep, Wellington-Picton, 5km. More exploring, lunch at hostel, ride to ferry. Very still day and great views from ferry.
10 Sep, Picton-Waitaria Bay, 75km. Fantastic sunny weather. After first hill just out of Picton , the Queen Charlotte's drive undulates with great views of QC Sound. Turnoff to Anikawa and the QC walkway. First 12.5km of walkway to Te Mahia is not bad, scenic and takes 1.hr 45mins. The walk up to lookout above (1hr return) is worthwhile for extensive views. This section maybe ok for unladen mountain bikes or idiots, but not me. Down to bike and along lovely undulating road to Portage for lunch on jetty. Gravel road begins and is mostly ok for nice ride around Kenepuru sound to Mary's Hostel (YHA, great) at 3pm for an afternoons relaxation. Resident couple are kayaking for a week.
11 Sept, Waitaria Bay. Damp day so read and bludged.
12 Sept, Waitaria Bay - Blenheim, 107km. Drizzle all day. Good run until bridge past Te Mahia, on the bump at the edge of bridge I lost both panniers and cracked the other side of rack at base., So I wired this up and decided Blenheim was the best bet for a replacement now that both sides were broken. QC drive again enjoyable and reach Picton for lunch. 28km to Blenheim easy going.
13 Sept, Blenheim-St Arnaud, (Lake Rotoiti), 102km. Left at 8:30 with frost still on ground. After shopping, the first 40km to Wairoa Valley seemed tough with northerlies often swirling into headwinds. Deeper into Wairoa Valley they became good tailwinds and riding good. The ride rises 400m over 80km - imperceptible really. After The Branch rise is more obvious before final climb to Tophouse (700-750m) and short descent to St Arnaud at 2:20. After some dithering, I decided the afternoon was too nice to waste so I paid for accommodation at the Lake Head hut ($8) and walked there in 2½ hours (very enjoyable), leaving bike locked at DOC office and a pannier inside.
14 Sept, Lake Rotoiti-Murchison, 65km. Walk out along western side of lake took 4 hours - first 2½ hours good, last part less interesting. Crossing the stream (knee deep) near the hut and stepping out into the frosty grass rather wakes one up. Legs did not feel up to more walking so hopped back on bike. First part difficult due to headwind up valley but rolled into Murchison around 3 hours later. After investigating shops and pub I backtracked 2km to Riverview camp/YHA.
15 sept, Murchison-Punakaiki, 145km. 7:30 start and back through town rugged up against the cold for really pretty undulating ride down Buller Gorge. First 70km or so seemed easy (down hill!) but the wind near the coast was trying. Had lunch at turnoff before heading south. 35km through Charleston is not very scenic and includes a few significant climbs. Gears on rear cassette are becoming harder to catch due to the internal bit of gearing wearing out after just 10000km (pathetic how badly designed/built some of these things are!) Eventually sprint down to coastline and dawdle last 15km into Punakaiki - a lovely spot though the shop has only a very limited and expensive range of food. Seeing the blowholes in moonlight at full tide was good. 2 other tourers here, NZers.
16 Sept, Punakaiki - Hokitika, 87km. Dawdle, talk to another Tasmanian (Walking around NZ! in sections of a few hundred km at a time). Walk up river gorge for a while (past all the whitebait fishermen) before departing at 11am and reach Greymouth in just over 2 hours. Good bikeshop can replace the worn part for $NZ50 and I unnecessarily get a spare tyre also. Buy heaps of food while waiting for repair. Speed down flat coastal run to Hokitika in 1½ hours, feels good. Hoki has seen greater days and has many fine buildings to prove it! A pleasant place with a great beach (and loads of driftwood). Seaside backpackers is small and comfortable.
17 sept, Hokitika-Hari Hari, 75km. It poured overnight and was still raining heavily as I setoff for museum and supermarket at 9:15, Museum has great AudioVisual on area and its booms (gold, timber) and rapid declines. When I leave at 11 rain has diminshed and stops altogether soon after a nice little detour to Lake Mahinapua. Yarn to an American cyclist for a while before stopping at Ross for lunch.The afternoon through forest is nice but surprisingly hard going (not sure why). Reach Hari Hari before 4 and stay at the clean, comfortable and cheap Tomasi motel. Dawdle around town, chat, read and relax.
18 Sept, Hari Hari - Franz Josef glacier, 90k. A nice warm overcast morning and an 8am departure heading for Okarito and its cute little hostel. One hill of note (Mt Hercules, 150m) but good time and reach Okarito after 11 and walk to the trig point lookout. Nice spot remiscent of Opoutere but I decide to continue and catch 2pm glacier walk. Fast trip into Franz Josef at 1:15. Glacier varies quite a lot and is reasonably interesting, the guide helpful. Stay in bunkroom at fairly average motor camp - cheap and I have place to myself, it beats sharing with "Kiwi-Experience" crowd.
19 Sept, Franz Josef-Fox Glacier, 35km+. Dawdle around DOC info centre (very interesting) and a short walk before 11:30 departure to Fox, just 24km but 3 hills of around 200m each. but make good time of 1hr 15mins or less. Motor camp is good and bunkroom to myself, camp fills with Germans in motor homes. Ride and walk out to glacier which is more jagged and steep than FJ at the terminal, valley is steep walled and obviously eroding. The erosion gullies/streams/rivers are huge considering the amount of water currently flowing. Push/carry bike across river walk and ride down rough road to Moraine walk. Forest is enchanting- the difference between that on 1750 moraine and that below (1600 moraine, etc) is substantial - former looks still like regrowth while latter has more the appearance of old forest. Going through a hungry period that seems to happen after a month of riding, particularly in cold weather - yesterday lots of raisins and nuts and sweets and huge dinner I could not finish but hungry enough two hours later to finish 200g of jelly beans. Similar today.
20 Sept, Fox - Haast, 118km. A lovely cool start just after 8 south along flats to Copland Pass walk junction (a great walk according to the 'grubs' if weather is good, river crossings can be tough if lots of rain). South again to Bruce Bay for morning tea, then to Lake Paringa and delightful st James walkway through Silver Beech forest. On to Lake Moeraki for 30-40 min walk to very pretty Monroe's beach through some interesting forest (Kahikatea, Rimu). Road undulates south with surprise climbs over Knight and Arnott Points (150m or so each), down to Ship Creek and dolphin viewing tower (no dolphins in sight) and lovely Swamp/Kahikatea forest walk. A bit tired by now, I reached Haast visitor centre at 4:15 but ran out of time to see everything there. Haast Highway Accommodation not bad.
21 Sept, Haast - Wanaka, 146km. 7:45 start for expected long day. The road up Haast river undulates slightly into cool onshore breeze that disappears as day warms up. A few short stops for waterfall/forest walks before the Gates of Haast, the first climb rather steep (250m in 2.5km approx) before levelling out to upper valley and then slight climb to pass proper (562m). A fairly strong NW wind then speeds me along 84km to Wanaka in 4hours despite nearly an hour for lunch and 15-20mins on part of Blue Pools walk. Road along lake again undulates before 100m climb to the neck, 100m to Lake Hamea lookout and into Wanaka (at 3:15). Hostel is a bit dour from road but friendly and welcoming.
22 Sept, Wanaka, 20km. "Rest day" with relaxing morning and depart at noon for Roys Peak walk/climb, 1200m over 8km of 4WD track, gentle grades (for walking that is!) but top 300-400m in snow. A spectacular lunch spot on top with magical views - the SE winds and cold front predicted yesterday at Haast are a day late coming. Knees suffer again on way down. Hungi and steamed pudding in evening follow leisurely afternoon riding/walking/lazing/reading.
23 Sept Wanaka The real rest day, legs stiff from walk, cold front is mild though it only gets to 9º
24 Sept Wanaka-Glenorchy, 116km. Head up the infamous Cardrona road along with all the snowboarders and skiiers. Road is really nice til cute old town remnants of Cardrona, climbing gently. Here the gravel sets in, quite rough in places but well graded until the last steep grind upto the pass (about 200m) for good views, snow begins at this altitude (1130m, 2½hours to here). Some of those headed snow-ward were quite happy to stick to the middle of the narrow road, forcing me onto the rougher edges at times. First few hundred metres down is as described in cycle-touring book - steep, rough corners and potentially dangerous - tightening my brakes at top was a good idea, a long controlled skid! Flat section on sealed road before zig-zag down to river level. Into Queenstown for information and lunch. Meet Elya (yet again) in street. Leave at 2:20 for last 47km to Glenorchy, will soon all be sealed. The 20km+ from Closeburn to Mt Creighton is trying - rarely flat, often steep.
25-29 Sept, Glenorchy area, 70k. Store some luggage at holiday park then ride to start of Greenstone/Caples walks. Road is good as far as Kinloch but I pinched a tire against a rock on rough downhill bit a few km further on. Its hot and walking quite strenuous. 5hrs 15mins to Upper Caples hut including breaks. Cold overnight. Next day red beech forest above the hut (on way to Howden hut) is magnificent. Track is a bit rough underfoot for fairly gentle climb to McKellar (2.5hours, 945m, no snow near track), down to Howden hut (1hr 45mins) then along to Lake Mckenzie Hut on Routeburn track, a rather grand affair. 3 walkers came through over Routeburn and said it was "very scary" in the snow and ice. Next day leave for Howden hut again (2 hrs), walk to Divide and hitch out to Milford Sound for cruise (by car, the climb to Homer tunnel at 1270m is no problem!) , back to Divide and on to the "key summit" for extensive views and down to Howden hut again. Next is fairly easy though sodden Greenstone track to Slyburn Hut. Next day 2hrs 45mins back to bike, 1½hrs ride to start of Routeburn track (east side) and walk to Flats hut for lunch, then Falls hut - a luxurious track - and up above til the snow becomes too deep, it is a lot softer now than 3 days before and safer to walk through.
30 Sept, Routeburn-Queenstown 75k. 2 hour walk to bike to repack, then ride to Glenorchy around 11, recover gear (and food left in fridge at backpackers) and repack again. 47k to Queenstown is quite difficult this way too, all those steep little climbs. Hot again, end at Bungi backpackers which is cheap and ok.
1 Oct, Queenstown. Williams Cottage is interesting, then walked 500m upto Gondola terminal then about 250m more for views - a few mountain bikers were struggling (or walking) up the track on my way down.
2 Oct, Queenstown-Ophir, 125k. With a sort of a westerly wind behind I depart along Arrowtown backroad. First hill is a bit of a surprise then make good time. Arrowtown very interesting with many restored/renovated buildings. Back to main road to the Bungy bridge to watch a couple of jumps, then through the winding Kawarau gorge, past all the fruit stands to Cromwell and its well organised museum. Strong northerly here would make ride over Lindis Pass really hard so continue SE through Clyde to Alexandra, then NE 26km partly into wind to Ophir with its great suspension bridge, friendly hostel (owner is friendly, I'm only inhabitant), cute schist buildings and art-deco pub.
3 Oct, Ophir-All Day Bay, 180km. Plan to make use of strong north-westerly wind and first struggle across it for 2+ hours, turn right toward Ranfurly with wind, last 9km in 11 mins. Wind is not quite as helpful after this but reach Dunbalk for lunch just after 1pm (120km). Next 30k to Moeraki (and walk to see Moeraki boulders) goes ok but last 30km north is quite tough.
4 Oct, All Day Bay - Oamaru, 20k. Ride in to Oamaru in an hour approx, drop gear at YHA and walk for the day. Superb array of 19th century commercial buildings and good eclectic selections of 1890s-1930s houses.
5 Oct, Oamaru - Omarama (Bucton Station), 130km. Leave soon after 8 and make hard work (into light breeze) of first hour or so along main road but rhythmn improves after straightening seat. Make 8km detour towards "Earthquake Cliffs" but give up before reaching them. Very gradual climb to Kurow, Waitaki and Aviemore. Modest hill (150m?) after Otematata. Breeze has dropped and once on plateau in "Mckenzie" country, road is flat. Ride past Bucton station but reconsider and go back, its lovely, nearly as good as Opoutere.
6 Oct, Omarama - Mt Cook, 85km. Reluctantly decide to continue and depart at 9:15 (now daylight saving time) in cold of morning. Easy riding to Twizel in an hour for some shopping. After 2 hours I'm half way there but run into N/W wind funnelling down Lake Pukaki (forecast is S/W). Wind is soon strong (50kmh) and progress slow. Struggle through last half in over 3 hours and strain knees in process. Light hail at end turns later to snow, 2cm by dark. Hostel is well designed and organised but institutional and unfriendly.
7 Oct, Mt Cook, 5km. A blanket of snow has changed everything and I ride the whole 2km to Hooker Valley track for delightful 1hr walk out to Hooker Glacier lake complete with ice sculptures. Snow melts quickly after 11 in the sun and it looks quite different. Bludge most of afternoon apart from steep climb to red Tarns for view. 2 Japanese cyclists here, one I met in Wellington.
8 Oct, Mt Cook - Geraldine, 190km+ Clear warm day, great views down and around lake. 55km back to turnoff takes 2hrs20mins instead of 3½hrs + going up, ride around lake to "tourist" route with brief climb (100-150m) up to canal then easy scenic ride to Lake Tekapo for lunch among lots of tourists. Westerly winds pick up after lunch and 90km to Geraldine takes 3hr 45 mins including about 20mins poking around Fairlie, a pretty town. Motor camp at Geraldine is terrific with some excellect specimen trees, sequoias, cedars, etc. Talbot Forest just out of town, a remnant of the original is also quite good.
9 Oct, Geraldine-Christchurch, 145km. First 50km via Mayfield and Ashburton Forks with snowy mountain views is rather pleasant but I start feeling weaker just as NE wind picks up, mainly a cross wind for 35km into Rakaia, then tedious 50km into wind on highway (luckily with wide shoulder except on bridges or overtaking lanes). Once in city wind effect is less and jostle of traffic actually somewhat fun. Head to Stonehurst backpackers and try the $8 beds - not so bad.
10-12 Oct, Christchurch, 20km. Only riding is up into Port Hills and down again, a popular weekend cycling destination.
13 Oct, Christchurch - Melbourne - Hobart Ride to airport then fly, bike box is provided by Qantas for nothing. Fly to Hobart as it costs same as Melbourne while Launceston costs $150+ more.
Hobart (bus)-George Town, 60km.Had planned to ride back home but laziness and lack of time put me on a bus to Launceston and I rode from there - having perhaps the closest shave of the journey just 15kms from home - I could not hear the truck coming up behind in the wind - some drivers just expect you to get out of way.
3835km. One tyre, some infernal gear mechanism and pack rack replaced, numerous punctures/pinched tyres and I'm a lot fitter than when I started.